Anthony Vaccarello
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Why does Anthony Vaccarello always wear black and how does it shape his design philosophy?
Hi, come in.
Welcome to Fashion Neurosis, Anthony Vaccarello.
Thank you.
Can you tell me what you're wearing today and why you chose these particular clothes?
I have to say more and more I'm dressing like to don't think about it. Um wearing like a black t shirt and a black Lounge pens. Yeah, to be focused on what I have to do during the day.
Mm. And you always wear black.
Yes. Yes, um I try some nude colours or some like more softer colours sometimes but I Could not get out of the house like that. So I I mean black when I'm outside of the house.
I think one of the things that Is a The purpose of fashion is to To be able to dress in a way that makes you not think about yourself, even if it's very attention seeking. And Because when you get it right. you can think properly and it really is an asset to your intelligence because you don't have to worry about your outfit. But it it isn't always to do with Bing. not dressed up. So I like the way different people do that like you, you wear a kind of uniform and some people do the opposite and they have the same outcome and I I think that's the kind of service of Great design.
Yeah, it's being trying to be Nota center of the attention. Two I see myself more as To serve someone in a way so Being in black for me it's more like being A soldier in a way.
Mm. Because you're the the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. You're one of the most respected designers in the world. And you're also producing films as part of your role a as the creative director. What was the first film that you saw that really affected you?
I think I still don't know if it's was Crush by David Cronenberg or Um I mean French is called The Labyrinth des Passions from Pedro Almodovar.
Oh yeah.
Mm, it's one one of those. And I have the feeling that my work it's really In the middle of those two films. between crush and Any film of Animal of war in the nineties.
Yeah. Yeah. I love those directors who In particular David Cronenberg, because I He was on fashion neurosis and I I met him and just found him dead.
He's amazing.
He's so wonderful and so funny and Hmm.
Yeah, it's amazing and being able to work with them years later when I was at Salon was for me like When I think about it one of my biggest achievement. For me it's even more important than doing clothes or doing shows. was being able to work with um Yeah, David Cronenberg, Pedro Modovar, Jim George Moosh and Yeah. also was like very close to work with um Jean-Luc Godard.
He died
just a little bit before the s project was started and It's crazy to Formula. A boy from Belgium being able to work with those amazing Artist. So yeah.
You said one of your early memories as being shocked by a Francis Bacon. painting and I remember going to the tape with my stepfather when I was eleven, him putting my his hand over my eyes and I've loved Francis Bacon ever since then and uh I wondered is being shocked by art something that's key to your liking it.
I I don't think that I was I mean my parents like I came from like um A very normal middle class. Um family. I mean. My parents was like Immigrant from Sicily, so I I think museum was not The priority. Um when I was a kid. So I have the feeling they push me. To be curious by myself. But we have no memories of going to the museum with them. So Francis Bacon and all those artist has started to discover them through television, um through books. through school but more It's more something that I want to learn more about than being feed with um With the art done by Yeah.
It's so thoughtful of them to take you to a museum anyway, you know, just to kind of plant that seed even if I mean clearly that was something very much alive in you anyway, because you're such an artistic person and that's That's You know, even if there's no obvious connection, it seems
Yeah, in a way everything is linked, I don't know. Everything makes sense, but you discover that like years later, the result, the effect of of that.
Yeah.
I think.
No, it's true.
There's uh there's a suburb of um London called Bromley which I was quite boring and dull, but It's produced these amazing artists, including David Bowie and
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Chapters
8 chapters
1
Why does Anthony Vaccarello always wear black and how does it shape his design philosophy?
0:08–7:33
2
Which films and directors first inspired Vaccarello’s aesthetic and how did they influence Saint Laurent Productions?
7:33–14:16
3
How did Vaccarello’s mother’s style and wardrobe inspire his early ideas about dressing?
14:16–21:27
4
What is the “ankle fetish” that Vaccarello mentions and why does he find it compelling?
21:27–28:12
5
Why does Vaccarello say French women have a unique relationship with sex and distance in fashion?
28:12–34:56
6
How does Vaccarello choose collaborators like Madonna, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Kate Moss for Saint Laurent?
34:56–41:32
7
Why does Vaccarello feel more creative in Los Angeles than in Paris and how does geography impact his work?
41:32–47:51
8
What does Vaccarello consider his lasting legacy for Saint Laurent and the fashion‑film crossover?
47:51–55:32