Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me using ART. We talked about the root cause and how overly tight muscles can become an injury, how Mark thinks about overuse injuries and his tips to avoid them, and two stretches every climber should do. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mark-dejohn Nuggets: 2:03 – What is Active Release Technique (ART)? 3:48 – My (Steven’s) Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS) and how and overly tight muscle can become an injury 10:19 – Homework vs. compliance 12:18 – ART as a standalone treatment, and ART paired with Chiropractic treatment 14:59 – The body as a system, and working up and down the chain 17:19 – Other climbing related injuries Mark has treated 18:47 – How climbers should be stretching, and two stretches every climber should do 20:37 – Timing, when to stretch, Mark’s thoughts on isometric vs. dynamic stretches, and how tight muscles can lead to tendonitis 24:13 – Scar tissue and Mark’s “gum in the carpet” theory 25:20 – Mark’s thoughts on tightness vs. strength, and whether “too flexible” is a concern 28:21 – How Mark got started with ART and becoming an ART instructor 32:14 – How Mark got involved with triathlons, being on support teams, and his trip to China 36:50 – Mark’s size (6’3”, 240lbs) and the difficulty of working on NFL players 38:10 – What Mark does for his own treatment, and Mark’s experience trying climbing 39:45 – Mark’s thoughts on going to muscular failure in the forearms every session vs. varied training 43:51 – A case for variability in your workouts and the root cause that lead to me developing CTS 45:49 – The recipe for overuse injuries: Doing too much of the same stuff too often 46:20 – How (bad) posture can lead to injuries and what Mark is working on for himself 48:17 – Working with people from all walks of life and the 90-year-old Canasta player 48:51 – Why Mark loves working with athletes and helping people get back in the game 50:45 – How to find a good ART practitioner 51:54 – Advice I needed to hear, stress vs. eustress, and Mark’s advice to keep getting outside if you’re injured 53:49– My recommended tools for self-care (Armaid, Theracane, Wave Tool) and Mark’s usage tips 56:15 – The Deep Muscle Stimulator and why Mark thinks it would be a good addition to a climbers kit 58:39 – How Mark got into bikes, racing, and why he prefers to get out and enjoy open spaces 1:04:07 – Mark’s plan to grow his business into something he can sell, and the benefits of K laser treatment 1:09:39 – One thing Mark would have done differently if he could go back in time 1:10:18 – Mark’s construction business, how he transitioned to ART, and Mark’s uncle Spencer 1:13:36 – Why Mark has changed his mind about the psychological component of treatment 1:17:05 – The links between brain, gut, body, pain, and everything else 1:17:50 – Diet and genes as potential factors 1:23:38 – Some of the best decisions Mark has ever made, learning new things, and keeping an open mind 1:26:47 – Something Mark is grateful for 1:28:04 – Something Mark is excited about right now 1:30:14 – Mark’s final advice for climbers: be proactive, cross-train (do other stuff), and hydrate like crazy 1:31:43 – Electrolytes 1:33:41 – How Mark’s other athletes use cross-training and options for climbers 1:34:48 – What’s next for Mark 1:36:30 – How to connect with Mark 1:36:53 – The review I left for Mark back in June 2019

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