EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More

Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘Freerider’ and ‘Golden Gate’, the importance of logistics in big wall free climbing, what she learned growing up in gymnastics, training plans, and eating more to do more.Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amity-warmeNuggets:0:06:14 – Winter weather in the PNW0:11:19 – My first impression of Amity, and her Yosemite season tick list0:13:11 – How to get good climbing photos (of yourself)0:18:05 – The prerequisite skills required to have a successful season free climbing in Yosemite, and being willing to suffer0:22:27 – Some of Amity’s background in climbing before showing up to Yosemite0:25:33 – Meeting Hans Florine, deciding to go to Yosemite, and a surprise ground-up free ascent of ‘Freerider’0:30:00 – Sending ‘Golden Gate’ ground up0:31:56 – Learning how to haul on the side of Will’s van0:33:44 – Patron question from Cody: What is the best way to acquire the hard skills of multi-pitch and big wall climbing?0:34:55 – “It’s always worth being willing to go for it”, and redefining what success is to you0:36:49 – How to care a lot about something while being detached from the outcome0:38:03 – The importance of technical climbing vs. logistical skills when it comes to big wall free climbing0:41:42 – What Amity taught Tyler about free climbing efficiency up on ‘Golden Gate’, and what she learned from Tyler about logistics, rope systems, and living on the wall0:45:53 – Patron question from Nolan: Where does Amity’s ground-up ethic come from?0:49:04 – Patron question from Rob: How do you prepare for a ground-up ascent?0:51:02 – Patron question from Savva about what it was like climbing ‘Golden Gate’, and Amity’s first time climbing the Monster Offwidth0:57:10 – How Amity plans to prepare for her next Yosemite season, and planning to train for the first time1:01:07 – Amity’s background in gymnastics, and sending  a 5.10 her very first time climbing1:07:36 – Climbing as a lifetime sport1:10:52 – Residual injuries from gymnastics1:13:46 – Patron questions from Martin and Ainsley: What from gymnastics has served you most in climbing?1:15:33 – Oppositional exercises from gymnastics that Amity still does, and doing ring exercises on the road1:17:11 – Amity’s weaknesses and plans for training this winter1:22:05 – Rest nights vs. rest days, and getting energy out vs. recovering to try a hard project1:25:18 – Studying nutrition and helping climbers eat more to support their climbing1:28:32 – The prevalence of under-fueling in climbers, and eating more without gaining weight1:33:29 – The complexity of the energy-in-energy-out equation, and why losing weight is a bad long-term strategy1:37:48 – Thoughts on protein amounts, timing, and sources, targeting carbohydrates around activity, and eating a variety of different foods1:42:46 – Replacing weight goal with performance goals1:45:19 – My experience with elevated blood sugar from a food sensitivity1:50:07 – How to connect with Amity, and her vision for future work and nutrition coaching1:51:51 – Patron question from Rob: How does Amity plan her nutrition for big wall projects?1:57:07 – Amity’s next climbing goal, and the next step in her registered dietitian journey1:59:36 – What inspires Amity2:03:09 – How Amity hopes to empower others2:07:26 – Wrap up

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