The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers

29 Aug 2022

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Neil Gresham is a British climber and coach who has been at the cutting edge for over two decades. We talked about using ballet as part of his training for his FA of ‘Lexicon’ E11, the importance of developing your finishing game, extensor training for stronger fingers, go-to ring and TRX exercises, sticking our training in the bank, thumb crimping, climbing his first 5.14c (8c+) at age 45, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Frictitious Climbing!frictitiousclimbing.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for free shipping on your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neil-greshamNuggets:0:05:45 – The Mythical Challenge0:18:15 – “Flitting” between different styles of climbing to keep motivation high0:20:25 – Improving two sport grades and one trad grade between the ages of 45 and 50, and what it would take to climb 9a (14d)0:24:49 – Feeling satisfied after climbing Lexicon (E11)0:27:33 – Olympians, and being a series of sliders0:30:08 – Lexicon breakdown, and Steve McClure’s 80-foot whipper0:39:10 – Why is bold trad climbing so glorified in the UK? And the “rules” for trad areas vs. bolted areas0:46:02 – Patron question from Elina, why Neil used ballet to train for Lexicon, and looking outside the box for ways to improve0:50:45 – Struggling to improve at climbing, and how that led to coaching0:58:52 – “People don’t realize how hard they can climb.”1:01:47 – Goal setting and finishing game1:06:33 – Getting more specific with your goals, and being willing to learn from each project1:12:19 – The tactical and psychological skills in redpointing, and how many of the top climbers just go climbing1:14:59 – Don’t expect your project to feel easy1:16:31 – Unlocking things on your project when you’re feeling weak1:21:24 – “Hard routes have been climbed in every conceivable mindset.” - Dave MacLeod1:22:57 – Patron question from Doug: What old-school training methods get overlooked nowadays? What modern training methods got overlooked back then?1:25:15 – Injury prevention, and extensor training for stronger fingers1:30:23 – Rings and TRX training1:32:42 – Neil’s go-to exercises on the rings/TRX, and feeling like an athlete after discovering rings training1:34:29 – How to combine extensor training with your other training and climbing, and Adam Ondra’s rule for antagonist training1:36:57 – Neil’s strength protocol for finger extensor training1:39:23 – How to incorporate rings or TRX training into your climbing and training, and finding the appropriate amount1:44:41 – Patron question from Jan: What should climbers who started at a later age (30s) focus on to improve, and would that be different from someone who started in their 20s?1:46:59 – Should beginners use hangboards?1:49:31 – How Neil and I both developed a weakness in the half crimp grip by avoiding the hangboard early on1:52:56 – “Stick the training in the bank.”1:56:58 – The way to make killer gains in your hangboarding: stop climbing! (And which types of climbers benefit from hangboarding)2:01:49 – Dan Varian from Beastmaker, and other people who have influenced Neil’s climbing and training2:02:59 – How to combine hangboarding with climbing to make gains over the long term2:06:51 – How Neil addressed his weakness in the half crimp, and his thoughts on full crimping on the hangboard2:11:08 – Thumb crimping2:14:37 – Pinkie wrapping three-finger crimps, and how everything we do should be built up incrementally2:16:34 – Why Neil’s climbing shot up between ages 45 and 502:23:33 – Neil’s golden rule in coaching, and taking breaks from structured training2:27:33 – Finding balance2:30:58 – A teaser for the keto diet conversation (let us know if you want to hear us talk about that!)2:31:39 – Where to connect with Neil

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13:00H | 21 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

01 Jan 1970

Fin de Semana

10:00H | 21 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

01 Jan 1970

Fin de Semana

12:00H | 20 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

01 Jan 1970

Fin de Semana

2ª PARTE | 06 ENE 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

01 Jan 1970

El Partidazo de COPE

3ª PARTE | 22 ENE 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

01 Jan 1970

El Partidazo de COPE

3ª PARTE | 04 MAR 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

01 Jan 1970

El Partidazo de COPE

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The Nugget Climbing Podcast

EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers

This episode hasn't been transcribed yet

Other recent transcribed episodes

13:00H | 21 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

10:00H | 21 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

12:00H | 20 DIC 2025 | Fin de Semana

2ª PARTE | 06 ENE 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

3ª PARTE | 22 ENE 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

3ª PARTE | 04 MAR 2026 | EL PARTIDAZO DE COPE

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