Show notes
Don McGrath is the author of Vertical Mind and an expert on mental training for climbing. We talked about the two simple diet changes he made to get back in shape in his 60s, our untapped potential in mental training, debunking and rewriting unhelpful scripts, how to tackle fear of falling and fear of failure, pre-climb rituals, how to use your climbing partner as a coach, how to stay in love with climbing as we age, duct tape and baling wire, embracing the suck, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/don-mcgrathNuggets:0:03:56 – The love/hate relationship to climbing in Rifle and Smith Rock0:07:49 – Living in Colorado Springs, spending the winter in the gym, and working with a coach0:08:52 – The two simple diet changes Don made to lose his “60-year-old belly”0:10:56 – Increasing his climbing volume, getting on harder routes in the gym, and the accountability of a coach0:12:31 – Whiskey time, habits, and alcohol substitutes0:16:16 – Turning 60, being retired, and setting the goal of climbing 5.12+/13- (7c/+) again after a decade0:18:07 – Don’s coach Kevin Branford0:20:40 – Don’s introduction to climbing, and how he became interested in writing and mental training0:27:27 – Shame Theory, and Fear of Failure0:30:43 – How the mental aspect of training is overlooked, and diving into movement, emotions, and thoughts0:34:03 – How to tackle fear of falling, scripts, working on one thing at a time, and the arsenal of uneventful falls0:39:16 – The story of the woman in The Gunks, and understanding irrational fear0:42:29 – Debunking scripts0:45:40 – The script that was holding Don back when he was one-hanging routes in Rifle0:47:49 – Don’s mantra, and “one move at a time”0:52:20 – Pre-climb ritual0:56:38 – Don’s first breakthrough with his mental game0:58:11 – Most common unproductive scripts1:04:23 – The best piece of onsighting advice I’ve gotten1:05:25 – Opening and closing your focus1:08:53 – What musical instruments and karate have to do with climbing1:10:30 – Warmups as a big missed opportunity1:13:56 – Cocreative coaching with your climbing partner1:17:43 – Shoulds elicit a shame response1:21:02 – Recommendations for couples who are also climbing partners1:23:25 – The area of mental game that I’ve been focused on, more about scripts, and breaking into new grades1:29:32 – Patron question from Gromstoph: Do you have any strategies for getting comfortable on a route more quickly?1:33:05 – “Just go find out.”1:37:29 – Patron question from Caden: Are there any ways to practice commitment with new moves when doing new climbs?1:40:37 – Main takeaway about mental training1:41:24 – How to love your sport as you age, play, and innovate1:46:24 – Why climbing is unique1:48:06 – Duct tape and baling wire1:49:40 – Don’s advice for those of us in our 20s and 30s1:51:52 – Socio-behavioral changes, and employing winning tactics1:54:28 – Don’s book The Climb1:56:38 – What’s the next book?1:57:15 – Don’s writing practice, and how a book develops a life of its own1:59:01 – Advice from Les Brown: “Every point should have a story, and every story should have a point.”2:00:41 – Have fun, enjoy the process, and embrace the suck2:03:30 – Getting inspiration from watching kids2:04:53 – Inspiration from good coaches, and the book Running With the Buffalo2:06:25 – What’s next?2:07:23 – Wrap up, and how to connect with Don