This is part 2 of my conversation with Alex Johnson. We talked about how she improved from 12b to 14a in her sport climbing, why she no longer does weighted pull-ups, isometric training for arm strength, a typical strength training session, performance vs. training vs. practice, and about Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock-Off Challenge. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-johnson-part-2 Athletic Brewing: Promo Code: “NUGGET25” for 25% off all orders for new customers Shop Athletic Brewing Beer Nuggets: 1:54 – Leveling up from 12b to 14a 5:11 – Testing with Dr. Tyler Nelson, fast hands, and pinpointing weaknesses (finger and arm strength) 12:52 – How Alex trained arm strength, and why weighted pull-ups are “moot” 16:27 – Breakdown of AJ’s isometric arm strength session 20:26 – AJ’s typical strength session layout (bouldering, arm strength, finger strength) 21:43 – Breakdown of AJ’s finger strength session 25:05 – “Snatches” on a campus board for contact strength 28:48 – Athletic Brewing and the Post-Send Lock Off Challenge 33:00 – Sending ‘The Muffler’ V12, and plans to go back to ‘The Swarm’ 34:30 – Highballs 37:28 – AJ’s parting thoughts for her team kids, and “never be afraid to stand up for what you believe in” 42:07 – Outro

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“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

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