This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week training block, an example training day, the value of training with a partner, favorite Louder Than Eleven films, and foreign haircuts. Support on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-glassberg-part-2 Nuggets: 4:34 – Flexibility training, and the pain cave 10:34 – Jon’s improvement in the spits 13:30 – Why splits training probably isn’t that important, and practicing climbing in a small box 14:56 – The distinction between training vs. just bouldering in the gym, and the value of the training boards (MoonBoard, Tension, etc) 16:11 – Jon’s MoonBoard training, and the “Top 10 climbs in a day” system 21:20 – How MoonBoard gains transfer to outdoor bouldering, and learning to execute 22:46 – How Jon structures his training week 27:36 – An example training day, mock comps, and climbing with a weight vest 31:40 – Indoor projecting days, and how Jon structures a six-week training block, and resting 34:24 – Some of the testing Jon did with Steve Maisch 37:14 – Building up your training capacity, why it’s ok to suck some days, and seeing improvement after resting at the end of a training block 39:21 – Budgeting a week to relearn how to climb after getting strong 40:32 – How Jon’s six-week training blocks fit into a year, and the value of a training partner 42:58 – Forced time off, maintaining finger strength, and warming up with a hangboard in addition to climbing 46:14 – Skin 47:38 – Jon’s guidelines for warmup up 50:20 – More about one-arm max hangs, how to progress the load, and where to start out 54:54 – “Don’t go into training half-assed” 55:45 – Hangboard repeaters, and how Jon structures a six-week block 1:00:29 – Feeling like a boxer, and going to the gym to win 1:02:19 – Jon’s thoughts on MoondBoard vs. Tension Board vs. Kilter Board vs. Beastmaker Board 1:04:11 – Jon’s recommendations for my Hueco “training” trip 1:07:39 – Project shopping, the relativity of grades, and the value of throwing yourself at something hard 1:10:33 – Sean Rabatou and the value of projecting with other people 1:12:59 – How Jon’s climbing schedule has changed over the years, and needing more rest days 1:15:02 – FA of ‘King’s Landing’ 1:16:26 – Good food and haircuts 1:17:26 – ‘The Abyss’ film 1:18:23 – Recent and upcoming films from LT11 1:20:01 – Gratitude for family and friends 1:20:48 – What Jon hopes to accomplish with LT11, and with his own climbing

Ask this episode

“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

Transcript

Related