Show notes
Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories to support a higher training volume, muscle protein synthesis, carbohydrate recommendations and timing, food quality, leucine supplementation, and much more. Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast (he's the first one!)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-herbert-part-1Nuggets:5:37 – The ambiance of Boulder, CO6:41 – Tom’s night at an outdoor club8:39 – The ClimbSci podcast (Tom’s old podcast project)10:23 – How Tom’s nutrition approach has changed since the ClimbSci podcast days, and seeking critique on Reddit12:30 – How I connected with Tom via Hazel Findlay, and my goal for this conversation15:04 – Who is Tom Herbert (@usefulcoach), and getting climbers to eat more to get more out of life19:45 – Common themes in the clients Tom works with22:56 – How climbers tend to eat the least amount of food they can get away with, and the weight of food and water 27:36 – Book recommendations are not real life, and Tom’s experiment with a cycling diet of very high carb30:56 – Michael Phelps, and Tom’s central message of eating more so we can do more training38:34 – Weight vs. lean mass and body composition44:53 – Gaining lean body mass while training47:45 – Progress in your training plan as a prime metric50:53 – My experience with being stronger and lean but “fluffy around the middle”, Tom’s experience working with physique athletes, and breaking down the ideals we have in our heads as climbers55:47 – The disconnect between looking badass and being badass, and “we tend to want to look like we climb harder than we actually climb.”58:35 – “Is this everything I can do with my body?”, “Am I doing everything I can do to be healthy?”, and excepting our bodies1:01:33 – Fat loss is not a linear process1:02:24 – Aidan Roberts’ DEXA scan, and the cost of dieting1:06:34 – Accounting for different bodies looking different at the same body fat percentage, and the selection bias of naturally lean people in pro climbing1:10:42 – Tracking absolute strength, and focusing on improving the quality and the volume of your training over time1:14:57 – Staying the same weight at higher calories, and reaching a new homeostasis if you do increase weight1:17:44 – My experience with gaining weight, finding a new homeostasis, and getting stronger than ever before1:20:20 – Energy availability, and how many calories Tom has his athletes eat on a rest day and training day (using me as an example)1:29:17 – Protein, muscle-protein synthesis, and eating protein 4-5 times per day1:37:57 – Tom’s thoughts on my daily protein intake1:40:29 – Waving carb amounts, and Tom’s recommendations for me for daily carbs1:44:21 – Saturating the climbing/training session with glucose, and the benefits of a low carb dinner1:51:28 – Tom’s thoughts on carb backloading1:57:08 – Two questions about carbs, and the main 2 reasons why Tom likes to wave carb amounts2:04:20 – Summary of Tom’s carb strategy, and thoughts on skipping breakfast 2:06:28 – Food quality2:08:12 – Patron question from Tyler: Thoughts on protein powders and artificial flavoring?2:13:19 – Why Tom doesn’t like BCAA’s2:15:51 – More on food quality and nutrient density2:20:49 – Seed oils2:22:19 – Tom’s stance on meat and animal products2:24:34 – Beans, legumes, and anti-nutrients2:27:06 – Eye Movement Desensitization and Reprocessing (EMDR)2:31:34 – Gratitude