Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
Episodes
#127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
07 Apr 2026
Contributed by Lukas
After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough pe...
#126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
10 Mar 2026
Contributed by Lukas
Spring climbing season is here—and it's time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric H...
#125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
05 Feb 2026
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of...
#124 - 15 Concepts That Changed My Life
06 Jan 2026
Contributed by Lukas
If there's one podcast you listen to this week, I hope it's this one! I'm genuinely proud of this episode, as it distills some of the most powerful co...
#123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design
15 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in Episode #122 and brings it d...
#122 - Train More Effectively: The Systems Approach That Will Transform Your Climbing
09 Dec 2025
Contributed by Lukas
This episode is the first in a two-part deep dive into designing a comprehensive, long-term systems approach to training. Coach Eric Hörst unpacks—...
#121 - Connective Tissue Training for Strength, Resilience, and Performance
11 Nov 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Modern athletes know that strength and endurance alone aren't enough. The ability to generate power efficiently, resist injury, and recover quickly de...
#120 - Conquer the Pump! Training and Tactics to Climb Your Best at the Red River Gorge (and elsewhere)
08 Oct 2025
Contributed by Lukas
If you're a connoisseur of steep routes, this episode is for you! We've assembled a "Red River Pump" roundtable that reveals the training methods, tac...
#119 - 5 Powerful Lessons from Emily Harrington's "Girl Climber" Movie
09 Sep 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Learn five powerful lessons for achieving big, difficult goals that I took away from watching Girl Climber -- the new film that chronicles Emily Harri...
#118 - Wes Schweitzer - Training to Boulder V10 (Pro Football Player Turned Climber!)
11 Aug 2025
Contributed by Lukas
After nine years as an NFL offensive lineman for the Falcons, Commanders, and Jets, Wes Schweitzer has traded 330-pound trench battles for crimps, sl...
#117: Manage Fear Like A Pro - 18 Tips for Winning the Climbing Head Games!
09 Jul 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. The fear of falling, getting hurt, failing, looking foolish, or simply facing the unknown can feel to...
#116: Climb Better TODAY! 15 In-Season Tips to Level Up Now!
10 Jun 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Coach Hörst shares 15 game-changing tips to elevate your climbing this season. Performance gains aren't made solely in the gym. As Coach Hörst expla...
#115: Training Strategy for the Next Grade -- A collab with Ryan Devlin of the Struggle Podcast
06 May 2025
Contributed by Lukas
What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade? With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding. I...
#114: Common Training Mistakes That May Be Limiting Your Climbing
10 Apr 2025
Contributed by Lukas
The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this ...
#113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!
05 Mar 2025
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level u...
#112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
04 Feb 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discus...
#111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!
07 Jan 2025
Contributed by Lukas
Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025? In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 20...
#110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025)
28 Dec 2024
Contributed by Lukas
In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form ...
#109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!)
11 Dec 2024
Contributed by Lukas
The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy i...
#108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!
12 Nov 2024
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond li...
#107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!)
08 Oct 2024
Contributed by Lukas
One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quali...
#106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance
03 Oct 2024
Contributed by Lukas
This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fas...
#105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends
17 Sep 2024
Contributed by Lukas
This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...a...
#104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids
10 Sep 2024
Contributed by Lukas
In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid cl...
#103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years
04 Sep 2024
Contributed by Lukas
This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes. The topi...
#102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal!
08 Aug 2024
Contributed by Lukas
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5...
#101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine
09 Jul 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursui...
#100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder!
11 Jun 2024
Contributed by Lukas
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of thing...
#99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time!
13 May 2024
Contributed by Lukas
When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a ...
#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing
11 Apr 2024
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon w...
#97: EXPERT: Grip Better! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance
11 Mar 2024
Contributed by Lukas
The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mind...
#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)
01 Feb 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-de...
#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness
03 Jan 2024
Contributed by Lukas
Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make cours...
#94: The Road to 5.13a - PART 3
04 Dec 2023
Contributed by Lukas
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes ...
#93: 7 Common Training and Performance Mistakes Among Climbers
07 Nov 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I'll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these...
#92: Research Update: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and More from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium
02 Oct 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August. I'll gi...
#91: The Road to 5.13a - PART 2 - Working to SEND the Project!
11 Sep 2023
Contributed by Lukas
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with ...
#90. Six Weeks until Autumn Send Season -- Training Smart to Perform Your Best!
22 Aug 2023
Contributed by Lukas
For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending. With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for diali...
#89. How Often Should You "Rest Day" While on a Climbing Roadtrip
10 Jul 2023
Contributed by Lukas
For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing area...
#88: The Physical Differences Between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (and the Training Implications for Pursuiting Peak Performance in Each)
06 Jun 2023
Contributed by Lukas
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in boulderin...
#87: The Making of a "Surprise" Hardest-Ever Send! (and the question "Why do we climb?)
09 May 2023
Contributed by Lukas
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will sha...
#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin
10 Apr 2023
Contributed by Lukas
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his firs...
#85: Will Running Help Your Climbing?
06 Mar 2023
Contributed by Lukas
It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands som...
#84: The Role of Genetics in Climbing Performance & What It Means for You
07 Feb 2023
Contributed by Lukas
In this fascinating episode, Eric Hörst provides a deep and thoughtful overview of the research on the role genetics plays in sports prowess and clim...
#83: Training (and Life) "Edits" to Climb Better & Achieve Greatly
06 Jan 2023
Contributed by Lukas
If you're passionate about improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas....then this is a must-listen...
#82: 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!)
13 Dec 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make! Becoming aware of common training mistakes, se...
#81: Boulder & Crag Day Nutrition for Peak Performance (FLASH Edition #2)
25 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or...
#80: Weekday Training for Weekend Sending! (FLASH edition #1)
05 Oct 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Do you work or school full-time during the week, then on the weekends set off on a mission to climb your hardest? If so, then you've surely considered...
Episode #79 - 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World!
14 Sep 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond li...
Episode #78 - Lattice Training's Tom Randall Interviews Eric Hörst on Training Past, Present, and Future!
11 Aug 2022
Contributed by Lukas
This episode is a 75-minute training-for-climbing tour de force by two of the world's top trainers, Tom Randall (Lattice UK) and Eric Hörst (Training...
Episode #77: Climbing Tactics & Pro Climber Analysis
11 Jul 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst's analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing S...
Episode #76 - The Optimal Mindset for Projecting & Sending!
14 Jun 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Your training is done. You've arrived at the boulders or crags. You're ready to begin work on a project...or perhaps you hope to send your ongoing pro...
Episode #75 - Increasing Self-Awareness in the Pursuit of Excellence
10 May 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Self-awareness is the ability to monitor your internal climate, comprising your thoughts, physical sensations, and emotions, as well as the quality of...
Episode #74 - 20 Tips for Advanced- and Elite-Level Climbers
01 Apr 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this Part 2 in the series, 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing, Coach Hörst provides 20 tips for advanced and elite-level climbers. Disc...
Episode #73 - 40 Ways to Improve Your Training & Climbing - Part 1
07 Mar 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this two-part series, Coach Hörst provides tips for an effective, holistic approach to steady, long-term improvement. No matter your ability level...
Episode #72: Training Case Studies - Part 2
14 Feb 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this PART 2, hear Eric's training advice for two elite/pro-level climbers. For each of the climbers, Eric provides a Climber Overview, Impression...
Episode #71: Training Case Studies - Part 1
07 Feb 2022
Contributed by Lukas
Gain clues to improving the effectiveness of your training-for-climbing system from this fascinating two-part podcast! Listen to Eric's personalized t...
Episode #70 - A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing...and Beyond!
02 Jan 2022
Contributed by Lukas
In this empowering New Year's podcast, Eric details effective strategies for uncommon success in climbing and any other high-value life activity or mi...
Episode #69 - 10 Common Training-for-Climbing Mistakes
10 Dec 2021
Contributed by Lukas
"The best training program for you is one that you're not currently doing." — Coach Hörst In this revealing podcast, learn 10 common training mista...
Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint
03 Nov 2021
Contributed by Lukas
I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you...
Episode #67 - The Perfect Warm-up Protocol for Optimal Training & Sending!
01 Oct 2021
Contributed by Lukas
One of the most powerful concepts I coach is that simple and seemingly "minor things" can make a MASSIVE difference in your training results and climb...
Episode #66 - 10 Powerful Tips to Climb Harder Boulders and Routes
03 Sep 2021
Contributed by Lukas
This T4C episode serves up numerous powerful tips--that you can put to work immediately--to more effectively work on hard boulders and routes...and se...
Episode #65 - Tips & Strategies to Manage Common Climbing Fears - Part 2
12 Aug 2021
Contributed by Lukas
To climb your very best -- and to truly enjoy climbing -- you need to become an expert fear manager! Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. ...
Episode #64 - Performance Training Interview with Coach Hörst - Part 2
27 Jul 2021
Contributed by Lukas
This is Part 2 of Steven Dimmitt's (Nugget podcast) interview of Eric Hörst on a wide range of climbing training and performance topics. In this epis...
Episode #63 - Nugget Q & A with Coach Hörst About All Things Training - Part 1
17 Jul 2021
Contributed by Lukas
This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmitt of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & ...
Episode #62 - Managing Fear and Climbing Your Best - PART 1
07 Jun 2021
Contributed by Lukas
Nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Fear of falling, fear of getting hurt or dying, fear of failure, fear of embarrassment, and even the ...
Episode #61 - Slowing the Pump Clock
06 May 2021
Contributed by Lukas
Training to get stronger is good. Learning to climb more efficiently so that you can get the most out of the strength and power you currently possess ...
Episode #60 - How to Create "Low-Gravity Days"...and Climb Your Very Best!
01 Apr 2021
Contributed by Lukas
Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days! Coach Hörst provid...
Episode #59 - Back to Basics: Time-Tested Training That Works!
04 Mar 2021
Contributed by Lukas
There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climb...
Episode #58 - The Secrets to Finger Strength...When It Counts!
03 Feb 2021
Contributed by Lukas
Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger...
Episode #57: A Simple System for Extreme Success!
05 Jan 2021
Contributed by Lukas
The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and lo...
Episode #56: Ask Coach Hörst About Training!
21 Dec 2020
Contributed by Lukas
What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more th...
Episode #55 - Effective Training through the Holiday Season
02 Dec 2020
Contributed by Lukas
2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now ente...
Episode #54: Turning "Impossible" into "I'm Possible"
02 Nov 2020
Contributed by Lukas
Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary b...
Episode #53: Effective Projecting...and the Secret for Sending!
14 Oct 2020
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast,...
Episode #52 - 10 Tips for Pursuing Maximum Climbing Performance
04 Sep 2020
Contributed by Lukas
Legendary climber, Wolfgang Gullich, famously said that "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". Sure, strong fingers are important--but...
Episode #51 - Tips to Climb Your Best on Weekend Outings or a Road Trip
10 Aug 2020
Contributed by Lukas
You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! ...
Podcast #50: 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers
07 Jul 2020
Contributed by Lukas
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Ad...
Episode #49: How To Improve Your Concentration and Focus
03 Jun 2020
Contributed by Lukas
As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Being technically sound and physically strong is not enough to navigate a high-ball boulder proble...
Episode #48; Strategies for Success Despite Hardship and Adversity
11 May 2020
Contributed by Lukas
Climbers are drawn to the challenges and potential adversity of the steep. Great climbers embrace grand challenges--and almost certain adversity--in a...
Episode #47 - Training Café: Energy System Training and more!
20 Apr 2020
Contributed by Lukas
These are crazy times we're living through with the COVID crisis. Most of us are self-quarantined...left to train on a home wall, hangboard, and whate...
Episode #46 - COVID-19 "Climbing Closedown"
24 Mar 2020
Contributed by Lukas
An often-used proverbial phrase, to encourage optimism and proactive action in the face of adversity or misfortune, is to "make lemonade out of lemons...
Episode #45 - Ask Coach Horst (Training for Climbing Questions Answered)
10 Mar 2020
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagn...
Episode #44 - How to Train More Effectively and Climb Harder!
06 Feb 2020
Contributed by Lukas
4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals! It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the ...
Episode #43 - 10 Tips and Concepts to Make 2020 Your Best Year Yet!
01 Jan 2020
Contributed by Lukas
It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. The topic is...effe...
Episode #42 - An "Intelligent System" Approach to Climbing Training and Goal Pursuit
13 Dec 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Effective training can't be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you'll learn a supremely effective conceptual model for training that adopts ...
Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance
20 Nov 2019
Contributed by Lukas
If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central ro...
Episode #40: Blood Flow Restriction Training for Climbers
08 Oct 2019
Contributed by Lukas
In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician ...
Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing
04 Sep 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and...
Episode #38: Ask Coach Horst (Round 6 of Training For Climbing Questions)
06 Aug 2019
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...energy system training fo...
Episode #37: The 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers
01 Jul 2019
Contributed by Lukas
What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Ad...
Episode #36: Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health!
06 Jun 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" d...
Episode #35: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 5
14 May 2019
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the interesting topics covered are...the science o...
Episode #34: A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers
21 Apr 2019
Contributed by Lukas
This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your ph...
Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
01 Apr 2019
Contributed by Lukas
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—...
Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance
10 Jan 2019
Contributed by Lukas
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your per...
Episode #31: Hangboard Training Tips & Research
07 Dec 2018
Contributed by Lukas
This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the...
Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips
03 Nov 2018
Contributed by Lukas
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in C...
Episode #29: Ask Coach Hörst - Round 4
02 Oct 2018
Contributed by Lukas
In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 7 wide-ranging questions from listeners, including in-depth coverage of effective hangboard trainin...
Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science
28 Aug 2018
Contributed by Lukas
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the ...