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Chapter 1: What insights do pubs provide about the British economy?
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Hello and welcome to another episode of the Odd Lots podcast. I'm Joe Weisenthal.
And I'm Tracy Alloway.
Today, you're going to be treated to a special two-part episode. We are here in London, and so we wanted to learn about the business of pubs, of course. And so we're bringing you first an interview with famed publican Oisin Rogers. He is the co-founder of the pub, The Devonshire.
And then in the second half, that will be an interview that was recorded live at a show that we're doing here in London with the chef at The Devonshire, Ashley Palmer-Watt.
Take a listen.
You know, we've talked about this before. Some of my favorite episodes, and I mean this completely unironically, are when we talk to people in the food service industry in some way, because I truly think that, you know, what we specialize in, which is sort of where the macro meets the micro, etc.,
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Chapter 2: How do pubs differ from regular bars?
What is a pub? What's the difference? I've flown all the way from New York City to London to ask just one simple question. Then when I get the answer, I'll be ready to go home.
I think this is actually an important question.
What is the difference between a pub and a bar? Well, everywhere has got bars.
Bars are places that people go to drink. You know, they're places for that occasion to just go and drink. But pubs are much more sort of connected into the fabric of British and Irish society. I think, honestly, they only really work well on these islands. I think what you said is right about the US. Yes, you do have pubs, but they're not the same. I think pubs have a timelessness.
A lot of the ones that are really great have been around for a very long time. And they have a function for people to meet in a neutral space where you can actually have drinks, have a chat, end up meeting people you wouldn't normally hang out with. And they're also a place of chaos and wonder and beauty and a bit of art.
And it's somewhere you can actually kick your shoes off and really enjoy and not know what's going to happen next. And they're a place for great stories.
Can you explain the sort of landscape of British pubs where you have independent institutions such as your own versus a lot of chains? I was in a Samuel Smith pub the other day.
We don't have bar chains.
Yeah. Not really. Punch Taverns used to be the big one. I guess Weatherspoons. Oh, my gosh. Weatherspoons was a place where I spent a lot of time in the early 2000s. Just to explain how it works here in terms of ownership.
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Chapter 3: What challenges are publicans facing in the era of the £10 pint?
And we just turned it into a pub on the ground floor with an amazing restaurant upstairs. And it's been fun.
I will say the reason I was in a Sam Smith pub last night was because we were waiting for a theater ticket and there weren't a lot of good options. I probably should have gone just a little further to the Devonshire.
Well, next time, Tracy, you'd be so welcome. Be great to see you.
You mentioned food just then. And this seems to be a key thing in the survival of pubs nowadays, which is if you can tack on gastronomy of some sort and good food, the economics seem to shift quite a lot.
They completely change, if I'm honest, for lots of reasons. You know, when I go back, you know, 20 years ago, there was very little food in pubs. Everybody smoked in the pubs and you could smoke at the counter and the whole place was full of smoke. So you wouldn't consider eating anything. And that gradually changed. So we moved more towards snacks you could eat standing up and then table meals.
And then the gastropub started in about 1991 to 95. And that's really become a thing where gastropubs are now really restaurants. And there's a sort of a real border happening between pubs and restaurants where you can do both. They can be very successful because the pub brings people in and people can drink before and after the meal in the bar area.
And, you know, it's a really nice convivial environment. And they're not as codified as restaurants, if you know what I mean. You can sort of, they're more higgledy-piggledy. You can sort of get away with a little bit more chaos. And, you know, they're more fun, I think, in a lot of ways. You know, you find a great gastropub in the country, you're going to want to go back.
And the same across London. We've got some amazing ones.
Wait, just on the history real quickly, did you say it was more like because of the elimination of indoor smoking that actually created the space for this notion of a gastropub?
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Chapter 4: How has the indoor smoking ban impacted pub culture?
And I'm always fascinated by a lot of in any field. A lot of creativity comes from figuring out what you can do with a certain set of constraints. And I have to imagine that there is a certain. You know, you deviate too much and it's no longer a pub anymore. It's a bar or something like that.
What are the constraints with which you feel like you're in a gastropub where your food and beer or food and alcohol? What are the formal constraints where if you go beyond this, you're something other than a
I think it's a really good question. I'm going to answer it by saying it's a kind of a spectrum. So on one end, you've got the codified restaurant where you have to reserve and you sit at a square table and you never talk to anyone else apart from your server and your guest. On the other end, you've got a wet pub that doesn't sell any food at all. And you can just wander in there, have a pint.
and end up standing anywhere you want. You can't reserve any area and you can have a drink and stay as long as you want. In between, you've kind of got the gastropub, which is in the middle. Some of it will be reserved for guests and some of it will be chaotic and you can go and have a beer. And there's this whole sliding scale all the way along. And the bit from a good wet pub with good food
to a gastropub that is definitely a restaurant is actually really wide. So there's lots of different places you could go in between. So it's really hard to define. And actually, I hate the word gastropub because it no longer means anything. Because that middle of the spectrum is actually so wide that you want to know where that business is.
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So I take the point there are different formats, so to speak, of pubs, such as ones that just serve drinks and others that serve food. But have you noticed in your decades of publican experience, have you noticed a shift in the way people actually use pubs and why they're there?
I think so. I totally have. I'm going to go back to the smoking ban again, because before the smoking ban, every pub had stools all the way around the bar, like you do in the US. Whereas before the smoking ban, they thought that they could sort of mitigate against it by moving people away from the bar so that the staff wouldn't be breathing the smoke in. And they thought that was going to be OK.
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Chapter 5: What factors contribute to a successful pub experience?
And a lot of my colleagues in town and some of the better restaurants are saying the same thing, that the kids really are all right.
How competitive is your pay in the world of pubs to this point? And then also, were you affected by Brexit at all in terms of your labour supply?
I think Brexit was once again a little bit of a shock in that we did lose a lot of our sort of casual Italian, French, German, Spanish and Greek customers. A lot of those were able to apply at the time for a right to remain and stay. And a lot of them did. But we lost a few. But then the tap turned off to them.
However, we are finding that there are other nationalities and other channels of people coming through. And a lot of our very best employees are British now. And we're very proud of that.
the 10 pound pile? What's going on with that? And is it just a few locations? And what are you seeing pricing wise?
I think prices have gone up and that's gone up because of the cost of production, the cost of transport, the cost of the raw materials, the cost of everything going on ahead. But I think it's rising at the same steepness that it always has. And I can never remember a year when public house people, you know, pub people all got together and said, oh, we've It's been amazing.
It's smashed to this year. There's always an element of doom and gloom. And, you know, I try to avoid it as much as I can. And we try to give people great value for money. We keep a pint on that's less than a fiver, always. Our biggest seller is Guinness, which is 720 now. I think that's fair. But I think it's true. You can, if you want to, go and find a pint for £10.
But is that the place you're going to really want to drink? I don't think so.
How does it work with your suppliers? How much pricing power or negotiating power do you actually have when you're putting in orders for your drinks?
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Chapter 6: How do ingredient costs affect menu pricing in pubs?
In terms of having seen, you know, unpleasant things in the past in kitchens and around. Once again, thankfully, not in my places, but certainly I think there was a lot of that around. And I hope there's not much of it about now.
Just, you know, just on the business question, having started, you know, the inflation that happened in 2021, 22 exploded everywhere. Yeah. You mentioned that you're always going to have a pint that's under five quid. But talk to us just about like when you think about menu design or when you think about beer selection.
Or just when you think about the business in general, managing a pub today with today's raw input prices, et cetera, versus say if we had been having this conversation in the mid 2010s or in the mid 90s, like how different is it because of the reality of just the high cost of many things?
I think footfall is hardest, has been hit the most in pubs. And that's a big killer. I think if you're selling hundreds of pints a day, you're not so much worried about the margins. And, you know, I'd like to, I always have flipped it on its head for us in that we've always gone for volume. So when we're full, we're not so worried. Yes, of course, our costs are really high.
But, you know, when you have margin and it kind of balances itself out.
And what's the key in finding a business partner? This is always a really difficult thing in any business, right? Going into business with someone or two people or finding the right investor that will be aligned time-wise and margin-wise and return-wise. Having done this now, what are some of the important things to know for whether it's a pub or even anything?
about the type of person you're willing to go into business with.
I would say don't go into business with someone who has got the same skills as you because you will both be doing the same thing. You need to find someone who has completely different skills to you. And in the case of me, Ashley and Charlie, it's a perfect example. Charlie is a big picture guy. He's set up his own restaurant chain, Flatiron, and was incredibly successful there.
He thinks really from the top down. He's very commercial. He's brilliant in meetings when it comes down to the financial side of things and great like that. We've got Ashley, who spent 20 years working alongside the best chef in the world, earned five Michelin stars in that time. His attention to detail on the food and product and purchasing side is second to none. And he's also a wonderful guy.
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