EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience

John Sherman is a bouldering legend. His nickname “Verm” (short for “Vermin”) is where the “V” in our bouldering grade system came from. We sat down in a cave in Hueco Tanks and talked about what bouldering was like 30+ years ago, early climbing shoes, highballing before crash pads were invented, out-of-body experiences, and how some of the boulders got their provocative names.Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, and Scott DonahueBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-shermanNuggets:0:08:00 – Recording in a cave in Hueco Tanks, and the Triple Crown of roof cracks0:12:54 – Experiencing what climbing was like 30 years ago, and early climbing shoes0:19:24 – What brought John to Hueco for the first time, falling in love with the bouldering there, and Mike Head0:27:30 – John Gill, the legitimization of bouldering, and four technological advances in gear that changed climbing forever (sticky rubber, cordless drill, crash pads, and cams)0:35:35 – What Hueco was like in the winter of 19820:39:42 – A day in the life back then, and making the first “crash pads”0:45:14 – Chalk, and why sport climbing was the end of climbing as Verm learned it0:47:47 – Using the same terminology to describe different ethics, and doing ‘See Spot Run’ ground up without crash pads0:55:03 – Geckskin0:57:15 – Historical tidbit (the Swiss guides)0:58:04 – More context about ‘See Spot Run’1:02:24 – Adding layers to the bouldering experience1:07:49 – The definition of “Kehl-geling”, and John’s out-of-body experience when climbing ‘The Thimble’1:20:00 – Why John wears two chalk bags when he climbs, and wanting to climb like Alex Sharp and Andy Parkin1:23:59 – Wearing a helmet bouldering, and John’s New Jersey story about hitting his head1:35:00 – Patron question from Aiden: What inspired you to write Stone Crusade?1:41:57 – The Fiesta XXX Drive-In, and getting boulder problem names from a sex toy magazine1:47:36 – How ‘Daily Dick Dose’ got its name, and living in the Quonset hut1:52:44 – How John got the name “Verm” (short for “Vermin”)1:53:46 – Patron question from Carmelo: Are we ever going to see Old Man Lightning?1:54:54 – Patron question from Craig: Which bird most represents your personality?1:56:32 – Why California Condors are John’s favorite birds, and individual personalities

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