Yves Gravelle is a V15 boulderer from Canada and a 3x APL World Champion (i.e. grip competitions). We talked about lessons from grip training that we can apply to climbing, the importance of simplicity and consistency, how to break down a bouldering project, basing your training on the demands of a specific goal, top 3 finger training methods, how to train full crimps, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelleNuggets:0:07:18 – How to pronounce Yves’ name, and living in Ottawa0:09:20 – The most legendary training montage I have ever seen, and an introduction to APL0:12:32 – Why Yves thinks climbs could represent themselves well in grip sports, and what a competition is like0:15:22 – Specializing vs. being a well-rounded athlete in grip0:18:11 – Balancing climbing goals with grip competitions0:19:28 – What Yves has learned from grip sports, and taking training ideas from powerlifting0:22:26 – How Yves bases his training around the demands of a specific boulder or goal0:24:49 – Is it possible to combine outdoor climbing with quality finger strength training?0:31:07 – An example training week with outdoor bouldering on Sunday0:35:05 – Preparing your body for the amount of training you want to do, and progressively working your way up0:36:19 – Building capacity, and learning about nutrition0:37:55 – Reading nutritional research about bouldering0:39:33 – How Yves has changed his diet0:42:28 – Maintaining finger strength during off-seasons, and pushing hard for goals0:45:51 – Finger training principles, keeping things simple, consistency, writing things down, and using RPE to measure your training0:51:38 – Training strength when you are fresh, finishing fresh, and not going to failure (adding a buffer)0:54:14 – Yves’ session load calculator spreadsheet0:57:36 – Preparation cycles, and competitive cycles1:00:45 – Jazz1:02:13 – How Yves trained for ‘So What’ V15, and building shoulder strength and mobility1:05:15 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Any tips for building climbing-specific shoulder strength?1:07:34 – Yves top 3 finger training exercises for climbing1:12:01 – Progressive warmup for finger training1:13:58 – Micro edge training1:15:39 – Contact strength training1:19:20 – Summary of Yves’ top 3 finger training methods1:21:08 – Patron question from Alan: Does Yves have a favorite way to train full crimps?1:22:39 – Yves’ full crimp story, and how he prevents finger injuries1:26:14 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Tips for training individual fingers? (And Yves’ grip positions and anatomy)1:29:53 – Patron question from Alan: How does Yves balance different methods of training fingers and grip strength?1:33:19 – Prepping for ‘Terremere’ and Hueco1:34:17 – Patron question from Daniel: Any plans to travel to world-famous bouldering areas and try the classic V15s or V16s?1:35:38 – 1-7-11 on the campus board (with slightly different spacing)1:37:00 – Patron question from Daniel: Is there such thing as “enough power”? What about finger strength?1:38:18 – Patron question from Xander: Do your finger strength gains still transfer to climbing?1:39:28 – One of Yves’ favorite coaches to learn from1:40:59 – When you are starting off almost anything will work1:41:44 – Patron question from Michael: What is the smallest edge you can hang with one hand? What about two hands?1:42:54 – Being muscular and still being strong on tiny holds, and putting on muscle mass in the right places1:44:30 – Patron question from David: How does Yves look after his skin, especially splits and tears?1:46:48 – Contributing to local bouldering areas, and winning the world championships1:47:41 – Yves’ daughters and gymnastics1:50:26 – Listen to your body, and enjoy the process1:53:10 – Be present1:54:39 – Wrap up

Ask this episode

“What did the council decide on item 42?” — answered with the speaker and the moment.

Transcript

Related