Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan’s resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training

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