Show notes
Josh Champion is an MD and elite boulderer based in Portland, Oregon. Josh and I hung out in 2017 during my infamous Bishop trip. Since then he moved to Colorado for residency, got even stronger, and then quit climbing shortly after sending his first three V13s. We talked about why he quit for three years, how he improved his relationship with climbing, helpful books, building Just Beta, and much more!The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon: patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-championNuggets:0:00:00 – Intro/Ads0:03:51 – Intermittent fasting, Josh’s “salad”, and diet soda in the morning0:07:15 – Reminiscing about the 2017 Bishop trip, Josh’s send of Mandala, and clarifying the timing of my journey with disordered eating0:12:07 – What happened to Josh after the 2017 trip, and moving to Colorado for residency0:17:55 – How the pandemic affected his work, and sending his first three V13s0:19:28 – Putting V13 on a pedestal0:23:51 – Expectations vs reality of achieving a goal0:26:21 – Delayed gratification vs learning how to enjoy the process0:27:52 – Josh and I explore what drives us to pursue goals, and pure inspiration vs seeking approval from others0:33:41 – Why Josh quit climbing0:36:16 – What it felt like to quit, filling the gap, and creating BetaCache0:42:35 – Finding a new physical outlet, and his mindset shift after being away from climbing0:47:27 – Discovering who you are without climbing0:49:34 – Not missing climbing, Josh’s antagonistic climbing friendship, and being free from comparison0:52:48 – What brought him back to climbing0:55:41 – Working on his relationship with climbing1:01:14 – The Zen of Climbing1:07:22 – Inner balance and friction1:09:48 – Feeling cautious but optimistic, and shifting the emphasis1:11:52 – Trying Woods Climb in Red Rocks, and plans for his upcoming trip to Moe’s Valley1:16:34 – Meeting Jonathan Siegrist, starting to climb because we enjoyed it, and when that shifted for Josh1:23:43 – Seeking challenge is healthy until you start putting numbers on it1:27:44 – Treating climbing like a martial art or a craft1:30:28 – Finding satisfaction and accomplishment in the process1:31:44 – Josh’s thoughts about trying hard projects in the future1:34:29 – Letting go of needing to check climbs off the list1:37:27 – What inner work looks like, and Josh’s claim to fame1:41:31 – The value of learning lessons the hard way1:44:19 – Realizing you are not alone1:45:54 – Why Josh created BetaCache, and the updated version JustBeta.net