Show notes
Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good(00:27:35) – The Hammer(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention(00:53:41) – Checking your ego(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good(01:18:51) – Chunking(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong(02:23:57) – Occupying the position(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta(02:37:57) – The Golfer study(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt(02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros(02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser