Show notes
Ever wondered why that viral skincare product left your skin irritated or patchy? It’s because for decades, the industry simply wasn't formulated with melanin in mind. Today’s guest is changing that narrative from the lab up. Dr. Vanita Rattan, a medical doctor and master cosmetic formulator, joins us to share her incredible journey from treating 40,000 hyperpigmentation cases in her London clinics to building a global brand that truly sees skin of colour.
We dive deep into the unique physiology of darker skin—from why our melanocytes are easier to trigger to why common ingredients like glycolic acid might be doing more harm than good. Dr. V explains her "science-first" approach to formulation, her refusal to take outside investment to maintain total authenticity, and how she successfully pivoted her entire career during the pandemic. Whether you're a skincare obsessive or a beauty entrepreneur, this conversation is a masterclass in purpose-led innovation.
Melanocyte Sensitivity: Skin of colour has larger, more reactive pigment-producing cells that are easily triggered by heat, friction, or harsh chemicals.
The Ceramide Gap: Melanin-rich skin naturally loses more ceramides over time, making a strong, hydrated skin barrier essential to prevent irritation and subsequent darkening.
Avoid Common Irritants: For those with higher melanin levels, it is best to avoid denatured alcohols, heavy fragrances, and essential oils that can lead to contact dermatitis and PIH.
Smart Ingredient Choices: Swap potentially irritating actives like glycolic acid for gentler alternatives like lactic acid or mandelic acid to achieve results without the risk of burning.
Education Over Marketing: Dr. V emphasizes the need for realistic expectations, noting that true skin transformation requires consistency and formulations backed by clinical data specifically for your skin type.
"I realized all of the treatments had been made for Caucasian skin and could lead to PIH—post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation."
"I use the best actives and the best ingredients... because I'm passionate about what I'm creating and who I'm creating it for."
"Education is everything, especially in an industry full of quick fixes and misinformation."
"I’ve never taken outside investment... so everything I share is based on genuine research, testing, and care."
"Skin of colour is easier to irritate and hyper-pigment... it requires more hydrating, less irritating, anti-inflammatory ingredients."
[00:00] Meet the Doctor Behind the Revolution
[04:20] Growing up in a Science-First Family
[08:15] The Melasma Discovery: Why the Industry Failed Me
[15:40] From 40,000 Clinic Cases to 40 Signature Products
[22:30] The Anatomy of Skin of Colour: Pigment, Pores, and Protection
[31:10] Creating a Viral Sensation: The Lip Pigmentation Kit
[45:50] Looking Ahead: SPF Innovations and Empowering the Next Generation
SOCIALS & IMPORTANT LINKS
https://susanroutledge.com
https://www.instagram.com/susan_routledge/
https://www.tiktok.com/@beautybusinessmatters
https://marketing.susanroutledge.com/beauty-and-the-best-chapters
SPONSORSHIP
https://www.phorest.com/
https://share.hsforms.com/1Z3Q1VRM8TNqfn11f4cZyPA1c4ta
This Podcast has been brought to you by Disruptive Media. https://disruptivemedia.co.uk/
HOST BIO
Susan Routledge is a distinguished figure in the beauty industry with over 38 years of experience. As a multi-award-winning salon owner and international business consultant, she's recognized among the top UK industry influencers for her passion and dedication.
Known for her down-to-earth, light-hearted approach, Susan is an international speaker and established awards judge. She founded the exclusive Beauty Directors Club, a global membership community for salon, clinic, and spa owners, offering business resources and multi-expert advice. Susan also created the online "Salon Success Freedom" program to help beauty businesses thrive.
Susan founded and has grown her clinic of 36 years in Co. Durham into the largest independent beauty salon in Northeast England. She is the creator of the trademarked STABLE business formula and author of "The Little Book of Client Retention" and the world's No. 1 bestsellers "Beauty And the Best" 1, 2 and 3.
She serves on the Professional Board for BABTAC, helping to represent and raise industry standards, and on the advisory board for the prestigious PHAB Service Stars.
Susan's expertise continues to shape and elevate the beauty industry worldwide.